How to Spend 17 Days in Italy

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Our favorite viewpoint in ITALY! Scroll down to Vernazza to find out where this location is!

So far, this trip has been our favorite trip! We left on September 12th and got back on October 1st, 2022, which covered both of our birthdays. We loved Italy so much we even had talks about moving there for a year! We can’t wait to return to Italy and explore more, but we will cherish the memories we made there for 17 days now.

  1. Why Italy?
  2. What did we bring?
  3. About Our Trip
  4. The Culture
  5. Planning your Trip
  6. Budget Ways to Travel
  7. Arrival in Italy
  8. Day 1 – Florence
  9. Day 2 – Florence
  10. Day 3 – Cinque Terre (Monterosso al Mare)
  11. Day 4 – Cinque Terre (Vernazza)
  12. Day 5 – Cinque Terre (Corniglia & Manarola)
  13. Day 6 – Cinque Terre (Manarola & Riomaggiore)
  14. Day 7 – Cinque Terre (Riomaggiore)
  15. Day 8 – Pompeii & Maiori
  16. Day 9 – Maiori, Minori, & Atrani
  17. Day 10 – Amalfi
  18. Day 11 – Amalfi to Capri
  19. Day 12 – Capri
  20. Day 13 – Capri to Naples & Rome
  21. Day 14 – Rome
  22. Day 15 – Rome
  23. Day 16 – Rome
  24. Day 17 – Rome
  25. Day 18 – Headed Home
  26. Our Favorite Moments

Why Italy?

So why Italy… Well, for one, we found great flight deals for September 2022, which helps. Two, because Italy was a dream of mine, and Hayden was excited to help make it happen. And three, Italy has so much to offer! More than we realized when planning and booking the trip.

Why not Italy? Italy has been a dream of mine since I was young. My parents always told me stories of their travels all over the world before they had me. There are still some stories I have yet to hear… but Italy… Italy was the story that became my dream! 

After hearing about their travels to Florence, Rome, Venice, and Cinque Terre, how my dad proposed to my mom overlooking the city of Vernazza. How magical the food and scenery were, I fell in love with that vision and felt it was my destiny to visit someday!

What did we bring?

Hayden and I always pack light. We never check bags. For one, checking bags can be costly, two airlines may lose baggage, or it may be delayed, and three, it’s easier to carry one bag versus two, three, or four. For 17 days in Italy, we brought only ONE bag each.

Hiking around Amalfi with our packs

About Our Trip

First, we flew into Bologna from LAX. We spent one night in Bologna and left on the train early in the morning for Florence. We spent two days in Florence. Then we took the train to Cinque Terre. When traveling in Cinque Terre, you can take the train or hike from one city to the next. We started in Monterosso Al Mare for one day. We took the train around mid-day to Vernazza and spent one day there. We then hiked from Vernazza to Corniglia, spent a few hours there, and took the train from Corniglia to Manarola since the hiking path was closed. We spent a day in Manarola, and in the afternoon of the next day, we took the train to Riomaggiore and stayed for two days. The night of the second day, we took a sleeper train to Pompeii and spent the next day at the archeological site. After we took a train, then a bus to Maori. After spending the night in Maori, we hiked to Minori, took a bus to Atrani, and hiked to Amalfi. We spent two days in Amalfi, then left from Positano for Capri. We spent a day in Capri and left early the next morning for Naples to get pizza, then headed to Rome. We then spent five days in Rome and headed to FCO Airport for departure early on our last day.

The Culture

The culture in Italy is very different from that of America. The first thing we noticed was that food is one of the centers of their culture! The restaurant atmosphere is very different; you are not rushed to finish your food or pay, the waiters and staff are all very kind, tipping is not required at nontouristy restaurants, and normally you are waited on by the owner.

TRY SPEAKING ITALIAN! Even if you learn one phrase, “Lei parla Inglese?” (do you speak English.) Most people in Italy do speak English, but starting with their language will gain you much more respect!

Before you visit, research the style in Italy! Italians are much more dressy. Some outfits you would wear in America may not be acceptable in Italy. We were almost always dressing up when we went out!

Outfit example in Vernazza, Cinque Terre

Planning your Trip

When planning your trip to Italy, consider your budget. How much are you willing to spend? What are your food, hotel, and activity budgets? If you stay for 17 days and are on a moderate budget, you will spend around $5,000-$7,000. We spent around $6,000, including our flights and travelers’ insurance costing $1,300 total. Flight prices will vary, of course, depending on the season. If you want to go during a less busy season with good weather, September and October are great months! We visited in September when the weather was great, right after peak season as prices were lowering.

Budget Ways to Travel

We started off our trip in Florence. For a less expensive arrival, you can fly into Bologna, Italy. Bologna is only a 37-minute train ride and has very cheap Air BnBs if you fly in late, as trains do not run past 12am. Train tickets were $33 USD for the high-speed train, do make sure to book ahead of time.

During our time in Italy, we only took three taxis. All other forms of transportation involved walking, bus, or train rides. Taxis are expensive in Italy, but the Busses and trains are very reasonable, and if you enjoy walking, you won’t need taxis and can walk around the cities easily; we walked about 8-10 miles daily.

Italy bus tickets were around $2 USD, and short train rides were $3-7 USD. For our one sleeper train, we spent $135 USD total for two people. For places to stay, booking through Hotels.com, Booking.com, and Air BnB will normally save you money. I do not recommend using Air BnB in the states due to the 10% “Best Match” fee that they charge, but in Italy, the prices were reasonable. We found two beautiful Air BnBs in Cinque Terre and a nice Air BnB in Bologna after our flight. 

ONE IMPORTANT THING TO NOTE ABOUT TRANSPORTATION IN Italy… Trains and buses do not run on time in Italy and are frequently late (sometimes do not show at all, but that is rare.) You should pre-book train tickets to be sure you have confirmed reservations. 10-30 minute late trains are frequent and common, so prepare to have a flexible schedule and plan ahead so that trains (unless it is a sleeper train) do not run with arrival times past 12am.

Arrival in Italy

We arrived in Bologna, Italy, late at night on September 13th, 2022. Our flight from LAX was about 12 hours of flying and an 8-hour layover at LHR. After landing, we took a taxi to our Air BnB in Bologna. Since it was late, we did nothing; we just showered and went to bed. Our Air BnB was very cute, affordable, comfortable, and clean!

Day 1 – Florence

We checked out of our Air BnB the morning after we arrived in Bologna, Italy. We were thankful that it was only a seven-minute walk to the train station, so we packed our backpacks, walked to the station, and headed toward Florence! We left Bologna at 6 am, and since the train ride was only 37 minutes, we had the entire day to enjoy once we arrived in Florence! Our hotel was kind enough to hold our bags as we explored the city for our FIRST day in Italy!

Our hotel was in such a great location, close to EVERYTHING! We stayed at the Hotel S.Giorgio & Olimpic,  it was very clean, and the staff was incredibly nice! We felt super comfortable staying there for two nights. The location was amazing! It was central Florence, within walking distance of the best sites and activities. It was directly next door to the Basilica of Santa Maria Novella, only a 5-minute walk to the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, a 13-minute walk to the Piazza della Signoria, Uffizi Gallery, and the Ponte Vecchio! Every other significant location in Florence was easily accessible by foot, with no need for a taxi.

Florence is a beautiful city! It is very clean; we were surprised at this for a city. We loved walking around the city, looking at the sights, taking photos, enjoying snacks, and watching the locals. CAUTION: The Arno river flows through the city, so during September, when we visited, there were many mosquitoes (make sure to bring bug spray.)

Our first day in Florence consisted of walking around the city! We walked from one end to the other, exploring the local shops, restaurants, cafes, bakeries, and free activities. One of our favorite places to hang out, day or night, was the Ponte Vecchio! There is normally live music, lots of little shops, and beautiful scenery. When in Italy, TAKE YOUR TIME! Enjoy the scenery, walk around, and try the local foods!

Ponte Vecchio

One fun experience is to visit the Leonardo da Vinci Interactive Museum! This is a quick museum, only $8.50 per person. We highly recommend booking tickets ahead of time on Get Your Guide in case they sell out. It was a super cool experience because we saw most of Leonardo da Vinci’s famous inventions displayed and got to interact with them and see how they worked. As history geeks, this was a fun experience!

We ate at the BEST restaurant with the BEST Tiramisu and the BEST food for dinner! We were so happy that the restaurant was our first dinner in Italy. It was a great introduction to Italian food. When in Florence, we highly recommend you visit Trattoria Enzo & Piero! It is a family-owned restaurant where the owner still cooks with his chefs (it is common in Italy for the owner to continue as a chef and waiter.) Our first day in Florence was amazing!

Tiramisu at Trattoria Enzo & Piero

Day 2 – Florence

Day two was filled with ART and HISTORY! First, we enjoyed the free breakfast and coffee, of course, at our hotel. We then decided to explore a little. We walked up towards a less touristy area and found an adorable local cafe called Caffè Lietta. We got coffee and pastries and enjoyed a relaxing morning! After, we walked around a bit, visiting the different Basilicas. We then returned to the Ponte Vecchio, found a place by the water, and ate some fruit, watching the scenery and people.

We had a ticket booked for the Uffizi Gallery for 3 pm. We HIGHLY recommend buying your ticket beforehand. If you decide to go to the Uffizi or Accademia Galleries, they WILL sell out far in advance. We did not have time to visit the Accademia Gallery; tickets were sold out, so we had no choice… The Uffizi Gallery was AMAZING! There was so much history and incredible artwork. Some of our favorite and well-known pieces were Botticelli’s Birth of Venus and Primavera, Caravaggio’s Medusa, and Titian’s The Venus of Urbino. We spent so much time admiring the beautiful paintings and sculptures. Make sure to bring comfortable shoes and water, and make sure to eat beforehand! We loved the Uffizi, but it is HUGE, there are two levels with 101 rooms of artwork, and it will take at least 3-4 hours.

Birth of Venus

After the Uffizi, we were exhausted. We took a small nap, then went to an awesome cocktail rooftop bar called View on Art, they do not have food, but the view is gorgeous. We had a drink there, admiring the view, then it was time for dinner. We went to Ristorante Buca Niccolini and enjoyed the yummy pizza! We loved our meal. After dinner, we decided to continue walking around. We went down to the Ponte Vecchio again. There was a musician playing music and people dancing. It was beautiful and peaceful! Day two was a success.

Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore

Day 3 – Cinque Terre (Monterosso al Mare)

We woke up early in Florence and headed out on the train. The train was only a 5-minute walk from our hotel. The train ride was about three hours, so we arrived at the furthest city in Cinque Terre, Monterosso al Mare, around 11 am. We stayed at Villa Degli Argentieri in Monterosso al Mare. The location was on the busier side of the town, but it was super close to the beach and had a beautiful top patio with great views! Our room was very clean, and the staff was great. They held our bags before we could check in so that we could explore a bit.

Views in Monterosso al Mare

Monterosso al Mare is a beautiful city! Like the other cities in Cinque Terre, it is a beautiful coastal city nestled into the mountains of the Cinque Terre National Park. All of the cities in Cinque Terre are very small, with only one main street. You can easily walk from one side to the other in 10 minutes. The beach is BEAUTIFUL! Once we checked in, we put our swimsuits on and went to the beach! The sand is white and soft. The water is incredibly warm and a beautiful blue. We loved relaxing and swimming by the beach. One of our favorite sights was the Il Gigante, a large man carved into the rock on the far side of town. It is a gorgeous statue that was blown up in world war two, but most remain. There are a few small hikes that will help to give you a better view of the city! Walking to the Statua di San Francesco d’Assisi gives a gorgeous view of the town’s cliffside, ocean, and east side. Above that is the Convent of the Capuchin Friars. It is a beautiful church connected to the cemetery, with beautiful views!

Il Gigante statue on Monterosso al Mare beach

We loved exploring the east side of town, where most restaurants and shops are. There was a beautiful restaurant overlooking the ocean called Torre Aurora. Their drinks and appetizers are amazing! They serve mostly seafood for meals, so we ate elsewhere, but it is good food and amazing scenery! It is the perfect spot for a sunset and an absolutely beautiful restaurant. Da Eraldo is another great spot for appetizers and drinks! For dinner, we ate at Causapersa, the food was good, and the atmosphere was nice. For dessert, we enjoyed gelato from Gelateria La Scogliera. The walk back to our hotel was beautiful, lit up by lights, fewer tourists, the sound of ocean waves, and musicians playing songs.

Day 4 – Cinque Terre (Vernazza)

I had always heard about Vernazza, so walking up in Monterosso, I was very excited! Multiple people recommended we hike from Monterosso to Vernazza, but we were cautious as we had slept in and did not want to hike in the heat. After our free hotel breakfast (which was delicious,) we decided to hang out at the beach and do one final (small) hike until we had to check out at 11 am. We then took a quick 5-minute train ride to Vernazza. Our Air BnB was in the middle of Vernazza! You could see down to the water when you opened the windows and peeked out. The location was amazing, and our host was very kind.

Vernazza Harbor

We loved walking around the town, sitting on the harbor, listening to the water, and swimming! We had drinks and lunch at Cinque Sensi Vernazza. It was the best decision we could have made! We got an amazing charcuterie tray with chocolate and cheese. It was unbelievably good. Our lunch was amazing as well! Foccohia bread and pesto for me. Hayden got a prosciutto and cheese sandwich which he said was incredible. We hiked up the path towards Corniglia and found a great viewpoint! We decided that we would return for sunset. After relaxing around town, we watched the sunset and ate dinner at a restaurant on the side of the mountain, Pirasca Ittiturismo. The view from was absolutely incredible, and the food… EVEN BETTER! We loved the lasagna. It came with a green sauce and was some of the best lasagnas we have ever eaten. Afterward, we had dessert at the original Vernazza gelato shop, Gelateria Vernazza, which our host had recommended and told us about.

Let’s just say we fell in LOVE with Vernazza. The locals are so kind. The food is so good, the scenery is beautiful, the water is so blue, the mountains are beautiful, the town is adorable, and everything about Vernazza is perfect! One of our favorite things was hiking up the path that leads to Monterosso al Mare.

Day 5 – Cinque Terre (Corniglia & Manarola)

We woke up 45 minutes before sunrise, hiked to the most beautiful photo spot overlooking Vernazza, and watched the sunrise! We watched all the lights by the harbor turn off, and the locals started setting up their shops and restaurants for the day. It was magical, definitely our favorite memory in Italy! After our sunrise hike, we went to a bakery, Il Pirata delle 5 Terre. The croissants were super good, and the coffee was amazing! We then decided it was time to move on from our favorite little town, but this time to HIKE!

Vernazza viewpoint

We left early to avoid getting stuck in the sun, hiking the path from Vernazza to Corniglia. Corniglia is much higher than Vernazza, so we had to climb many stairs during the hike. The path is very clearly marked and very easy to find! It will pull up on Google and Apple maps. We had our backpacks on with all our luggage during the hike as we were not returning to Vernazza! The views from the hike are beautiful, the ocean is gorgeous, and the grape vines are very cool and pretty to see. Hiking to the next town was a really awesome experience overall. We arrived in Corniglia hot and sweaty! Even though we left early, the hike was about an hour (2.2 miles mostly uphill,) and by that time, it was around 10 am. 

Corniglia is pretty but also the smallest of the Cinque Terre cities! Instead of being on the water like the rest, it is up on a hill with a great view. The town is pretty, but since it is smaller, there is not much to do. We stopped by a gift shop, got gifts for our family, ate lunch, and then decided to move on to Manarola!

The main trail from Corniglia to Manarola was closed and would take twice as long to hike around it, so we decided to take the easy 5-minute train ride instead. Our Air BnB host met us at the train station, leading us to the most incredible Air BnB. 

We chose the BEST Air BnB in Manarola! All I can say is WOW. This Air BnB overlooked Manarola bay and the town. We loved our stay and recommended it to anyone staying in Manarola. The price was not that bad for our dates either. Our host was very welcoming and kind but did not speak great English. Luckily he had a welcome guide with recommendations and discounts printed in English for our use! Very helpful.

The water at Manarola is gorgeous! Once we arrived, we put our swimsuits on and swam in the bay. Our host had warned us that jumping off the higher rocks was dangerous, and we, unfortunately, saw medics come to rescue someone who jumped off shortly after he mentioned it, so be careful and do it at your own risk if you choose to jump from them. We, however, did not. We swam in the water and jumped from the five-foot rocks instead. The water felt amazing!

We decided to eat dinner at IL PORTICCIOLO ristorante pizzeria. We had a super good truffle and honey pizza! Afterward, as usual, we stopped by a local gelato shop and tried the gelato.

IL PORTICCIOLO ristorante pizzeria

Day 6 – Cinque Terre (Manarola & Riomaggiore)

Since we were at an Air BnB, we did not have the hotel breakfast. We had hoped to eat brunch at Trattoria dal Billy for lunch but did not realize they only take reservations! Trattoria dal Billy came highly recommended to us, so if you visit, be sure to make a reservation a few days before. Nessun Dorma is also an amazing place for lunch with an incredible view! You can download their app and join the waitlist online. Instead, we went to Take-Away Pasta which was really good. Their frozen coffee was delicious! We decided to spend half of the day in Riomaggiore, so after our brunch, we walked around the city’s upper levels filled with grape vines! It is a beautiful walk with many colors from the flowers and houses. We then walked past the Manarola Overlook Viewpoint around the corner to a boat launch that made for the perfect swimming area! It was very relaxing, and there were not many people around, so we spent a bit admiring the blue ocean and the sound of the waves.

Secret beach in Manarola

After our relaxation time, we decided to take the train to Riomaggiore. As with all of the cities, it was a quick 5-minute ride by train. This time we stayed in Riomaggiore for one night at the Hotel Villa Argentina. We had a beautiful room with an incredible balcony overlooking Riomaggiore! It was a great stay. The stairs to the city’s upper level are a pain, BUT the views are worth it. There is an elevator to the upper streets if you do not want to take the stairs. During the day, you must pay to use it. At night, it is free. We loved the sunset views from our room! We ate dinner at Trattoria La Grotta; the food and bread were amazing! We enjoyed dinner and again went to a gelato shop for dessert. Hayden tried a crepe this time and thought it was delicious. We enjoyed our day!

Day 7 – Cinque Terre (Riomaggiore)

We decided to sleep in, and breakfast was ready at our hotel when we woke up! We enjoyed a nice breakfast and then went to explore the town. Riomaggiore was not as nice in our opinion as Vernazza, Manarola, or Monterosso al Mare. There are way more tourists, and the restaurants and shops charge more because of it. After breakfast, we hiked around the roads and trails in upper Riomaggiore, finding the best views and photo locations.

Upper Riomaggiore

We went to a cool restaurant called Bar e Vini a Pié de Ma for lunch. The food was great, and the drinks were delicious. We then went to the beach to go swimming and spent most of the day there! There is a nice (very crowded) beach on the east side of the town with the perfect swimming and snorkeling. The sunset at the beach was beautiful! After the sunset, we went for dinner at Pizzeria Kepris. We ate the pizza at a walkway with benches overlooking the ocean (above Bar e Vini a Pié de Ma.)

Riomaggiore harbor

Instead of spending the night in Riomaggiore again, we took a sleeper train to Pompeii to start our day early and explore the archeological site! We took a train from Riomaggiore to La Spezia to catch the next train. Our sleeper train was supposed to arrive at 10 pm but did not arrive until almost 12 am… You MUST pre-book sleeper trains. We highly recommend you pre-book any train longer than 20 minutes. We were thankful that even though we booked a shared cabin, we had one all to ourselves. There are locking doors which is a benefit. The beds are more comfortable than you would think. They have one seatbelt for the top bunk, but it is safer to sleep on the bottom if you are a sleepwalker or mover. Overall it was comfortable.

Day 8 – Pompeii & Maiori

The staff on the sleeper train wakes you up before your stop and gives you juice and a muffin (not very tasty, but a nice gesture.) To get to Pompeii, we still had a ways to go. The sleeper train dropped us off in Salerno, and from there, we took a train back to the Nocera Inferiore train station and, from there, a bus near the Pompeii Archaeological Site. Our bus dropped us off about a mile from the entrance, so we walked the rest of the way. The city of Pompei was not very nice. It reminded us of a smaller Los Angeles (dirty, packed, and sketchy.) 

We were so excited when arriving at the Pompeii Archaeological Site! We pre-booked tickets through Get Your Guide and SKIPPED THE LINE, thank god! The Archeological site was incredible and HUGE! It is about 163 acres. We spent a few hours walking around the destroyed city, the Pompeii colosseum, the amphitheater, and the museum, which was fun and had lots of historical facts, artifacts, and art. After a few hours, though, it began to get repetitive. The main sites are awesome, but without a guide, we did not have backgrounds for the destroyed buildings. We do not normally like guided tours, but this is one activity we do HIGHLY recommend you get a guide for your tour here! We felt we missed out without one but still enjoyed our visit.

After our half-day in Pompeii, we were headed to Maiori. To get to Maiori, we had to walk a mile to the bus stop, take the bus to Nocera Inferiore train station, then go BACK to Salerno, where our sleeper train had dropped us off. There are no trains on the Amalfi Coast, so we took a bus from Salerno to Maiori. The bus ride is beautiful. You are on a tight windy road with a cliff side below and a cliff face above, but there are many trees, and the ocean is so beautiful! However, bus drivers and drivers, in general, are crazy… The entire 47-minute bus ride, we were scared! At every turn, every corner, we had anxiety as this massive bus traveled along the tight windy road… It is safe to say we were happy when we got off.

The view from our Bed & Breakfast

In Maiori, we stayed in a beautiful bed and breakfast with an incredible hostess, Carmen! Casa Blu Cobalto was such a great stay! Our room was so clean, and the breakfast that Carmen made us in the morning was amazing. She also gave us recommendations for things to do. We walked around Maiori a bit and found a place for dinner since it was getting late. Carmen had recommended we eat at Mammato. Unfortunately, it was closed, so we ate at Tony’s Food & Drinks. The sunsets all along the coasts in Italy are beautiful! We watched another sunset and then headed back to our room.

Day 9 – Maiori, Minori, & Atrani

Our hostess, Carmen, made us breakfast in the morning and recommended we hike the Path of the Lemons to Minori! We set off. The path is very clearly marked and very easy to find! It will pull up on Google and Apple maps. The stairs up to the Path of the Lemons are killer. There are over 400 steps on your way up from Maiori, but the trail is WORTH IT! The Path of the Lemons is a scenic and historical walking trail connecting Maiori and Minori. Along this trail are many lemon groves, adorable cats, and shops! Locals will sell (out of their homes) their freshly made limoncello and lemonade for kids. The views from the Path of the Lemons are incredible! The entire path takes about an hour if you are taking your time, and we highly recommend that you do. This was one of our highlights from the Amalfi Coast!

Once our hike ended in Minori, we walked around for a little then took the bus to Atrani. Atrani is the town next to Amalfi. It is super small and peaceful but very beautiful! We decided to hike the very short but beautiful hike to Amalfi from Atrani. This path is not as strongly marked and harder to find. After our hike, we grabbed a small snack at a quick pizza place.

Atrani

Amalfi felt bougie… We are not huge fans of bougie. It felt like the Malibu of Los Angeles. The food, drinks, and accommodations were way more expensive than everywhere else we had been so far. We stayed at the Holidays Baia D’Amalfi, in Amalfi, for two nights. Our host was incredibly helpful and super kind! The room we booked was a super cool loft with a private patio. We did not realize we had booked it, but the room was much more private and awesome than a standard hotel room!

Once we were all checked into our lovely room, we decided to check out the city and swim at the beach! After swimming and relaxing at the beach, it was time for dinner. Our host recommended we eat at Trattoria dei Cartari. The food and dessert were very delicious, and the wine was amazing, but the owner and waiter did not seem to like tourists as much. While eating dinner, we saw a group of Italians at the table next door to us. They were celebrating someone’s birthday and hired a singer and musician. Seeing their birthday celebration and hearing the music was such a cool experience. They got up, danced, ate, and enjoyed each other’s company. After dinner, we walked around Amalfi. At night, Amalfi was peaceful, with few tourists and only the locals around enjoying their dinners or each other’s company.

The view from our hotel

Day 10 – Amalfi

We woke up early the next morning, excited to hike to the Veliero del Belvedere and Torre dello Ziro! We had coffee and pastries for breakfast that were way too expensive and headed to a mini-market to pack a lunch. We got some meat, cheese, crackers, and cookies, then started hiking.

There are multiple ways to reach Veliero del Belvedere and Torre dello Ziro. One way is by bus, which will take you to the town on the mountain called Pontone, from there you will hike a short way up to Veliero del Belvedere and Torre dello Ziro. The other option is to hike. However, if you hike, Google and Apple Maps will NOT lead you there. We used Maps.Me, which finds the most accurate way to the top! It is about a 2.5-hour hike, 3.5 miles.

Directions to the Torre Dello Ziro hike start (it is not 33 mins), do not use Google or Apple Maps.

From Amalfi, you walk to the back of the town and find the trail leading to Pontone (Maps.Me app will have exact directions.) From there, you go UP and Up and UP lots of stairs. The way up is beautiful but very long. Once you reach Pontone, you take the “Via Pisacane” street until it turns into a hiking path with more stairs. The hike up is beautiful! There are lots of trees and plants. We arrived at the Veliero del Belvedere first. The views are unbelievable. You can see all of Atrani, Amalfi, and most of the Coast! From there, you backtrack until you see a pathway off the main one leading down. Take that path (again, Maps.Me will direct you) down the mountain and follow it until you reach Torre dello Ziro. We ate our lunch under Torre dello Ziro, then climbed it! The view from the top of the tower was yet again amazing… however, the story behind it was less so.

The hike to Torre Dello Ziro

Torre dello Ziro

Torre dello Ziro dates back to 1480. It was constructed on the ruins of a 12th-century tower. Amalfi was a wealthy city run by Antonio Piccolomini (the first Duke of Amalfi) when Torre dello Ziro was built.

It is said that the Duchess of Amalfi, Giovanni d’Aragon, was locked up in the tower with her two sons and eventually murdered here for her scandalous affair with the butler. Some say they can hear her crying as they pass the appealing ruins.

We spent most of the day at Veliero del Belvedere and Torre dello Ziro. Once you are up there, you will not want to come down, not just because you have to walk down the stairs… The views from the mountain are gorgeous! We stopped to admire the view on the way down, and once we arrived back in Amalfi, we returned to our hotel to relax a bit before dinner. We walked around Amalfi a bit and ate dinner at La Taverna del Duca. The food was delicious! We walked around a bit after the day tourists had gone home and enjoyed the beach at night. A very fun day! We had wanted to take a Sunset Tour but never got the chance!

Day 11 – Amalfi to Capri

We woke up the next morning and spent some time at the beach. From Amalfi, we were headed to Capri. You can take the ferry from Amalfi or Positano to Capri. We decided to explore more of the coast and booked our ticket from Positano. Along the way, there are a few things you can check out! There are some adorable towns along the way with beautiful views. Furore, Praiano, Vettica Maggiore, and any other town along the coast. The Grotta dello Smeraldo is a beautiful cave! You can take a boat into the cave to view it. We skipped this under the impression we would go to the Blue Grotto in Capri. We then arrived in Positano, not realizing they were holding a huge event the day we were there, so it was extremely busy. We were instantly discouraged from exploring due to how busy it was and switched our boat ticket for Capri to an earlier time. Positano is beautiful and would have been fun to explore if it had been less busy! We did relax on the beach for a bit before our boat arrived.

Ferry to Capri

The ferry from Positano to Capri took about 40 minutes. They have seating indoors, or you can sit on the back deck and watch the ocean and scenery! It was beautiful from the back of the ferry. We arrived in Capri and headed to our hotel. We stayed in Anacapri for two nights at the II Geranio. It was a beautiful bed and breakfast with a beautiful garden, patio, large rooms, and nice bathrooms! Our hosts were very nice. We decided to relax and enjoy the views from our bed and breakfast garden until dinner.

We ate dinner at a beautiful restaurant called Da Paolino. The tables are underneath a lemon grove; most dishes are made with those lemons! The food was expensive and delicious, so we did not feel bad about splurging. It was a gorgeous restaurant! We then headed back to our room. We arrived at the bus stop, but the bus never came. This is something to be cautious of with the last busses in Capri; sometimes, they will not come. Since our hotel was in Anacapri, it would have taken very long to get there, so we found a taxi to take us. The taxi was VERY expensive. You MUST call and reserve all of your taxis in Capri.

Day 12 – Capri

We woke up on Day 12 to a terrible thunderstorm… Instead of exploring beautiful Capri, we were stuck inside. We tried to venture out at one point when we thought the storm had slowed. We made it on the bus then the rain started pouring down again. We reached downtown Capri, found a store, grabbed some snacks, and took the bus back to our room. Unfortunately, our only full day in Capri was ruined, and the day before, when it was sunny, we had spent relaxing… We enjoyed a yummy dinner at Aumm Aumm Ristorante Pizzeria, an amazing local pizza restaurant! Even though we had an unfortunate experience, it does not mean you will! If it was sunny, here is what we would have done.

We would have started off the day at the Blue Grotto! It is a beautiful sight, you take a small boat into a cave where the water hits just right, and you get the most beautiful view ever!

After that, we would have eaten lunch at Ristorante Panorama Capri. A beautiful restaurant with a gorgeous view. Then head to Villa Jovis, the Natural Arch, Casa Malaparte, Belvedere Tragara, or Spiaggia di Marina Piccola. Get some lemon ice cream at Tizzano’s kiosk. Afterward, head to Capri’s most famous activity: the Monte Solaro Chair Lift! This chair lift takes you to the very top of Capri, where you can enjoy delicious limoncello and beautiful views. We then would have enjoyed a nice dinner at Ristorante Terrazza Brunella. We wish we had been able to experience all that Capri had to offer!

Day 13 – Capri to Naples & Rome

We woke up to more rain! We were worried our boat would not leave due to the weather and made it to the docks, happy to find out it was there waiting for us. We took the ferry from Capri to Naples; it can take anywhere from 45 minutes to 1 hour and 20 minutes. We made it to Naples, it was still raining, but we were only in Naples for one reason… L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele – some of the best-ranked pizzas in Europe! The pizza was INCREDIBLE! They only had three types of pizza, each for $5! We arrived there early before it opened as we had heard stories of people waiting two or three hours in line for one of these pizzas! We only waited thirty minutes (for them to open) and were able to get a seat and eat. It was the best pizza we had ever eaten.

L’Antica Pizzeria da Michel

After eating, we took the train from Naples to Rome, about a 1 hour and 13-minute ride. We did not stay the night in Naples, though there is much to do if you are interested. Instead, we went to Rome and stayed at the Roma Dreaming ApartHotel for three nights. It is on the west side of Rome, close to the Vatican. On our first day, we walked around the west side of Rome! There is so much to see. Everything is filled with history and art! We suggest you eat dinner at Cantina e Cucina! One of the better restaurants in Rome.

Roma Dreaming Hotel

Day 14 – Rome

We woke up early for our Vatican Museum Tour! We normally do not take guided tours, but we felt we would be lost inside the Vatican with all its history and needed one. We learned so much thanks to Get Your Guide and our tour guide! Our tour guide was so knowledgeable and could answer every question we had! We LOVED the Vatican Museum and highly recommend booking a guided tour. All of the art, statues, architecture, everything was incredible. We were glad we did not miss out on learning the history and story behind everything. Fun Fact… Did you know you can’t take photos or videos inside the Sistine Chapel because a Japanese company bought the rights to its likeness?? We didn’t, but thanks to our guide, we know now!

Our tour was about a 3-hour tour. It ended around 12 pm. After the tour, you can roam St. Peter’s Basilica and its grounds! St. Peter’s Basilica is the most beautiful basilica/church we have ever seen! The architecture, history, and artwork are gorgeous and magnificent; the tombs are cool! We saw the cutest couple getting married inside. The gift shop is a great place to find gifts for your Catholic friends and family! Everything sold was blessed by the Pope. 

Gifts from the gift shop

After we left St. Peter’s Basilica, we walked toward the middle of Rome. We walked past the Castel Sant’Angelo, towards the Pantheon! The pantheon is awesome! On weekends you must make a reservation to enter. On weekdays, you do not need to. When we visited, you did not need to pay an entrance fee. As of March 16th, 2023, a fee of 5 euros will be charged to enter. There is normally a small line. It is a beautiful former Roman temple with many tombs and artwork, a very enjoyable and historical activity. After, we walked around the Piazza Navona and the Fiumi Fountain, both beautiful sights! There are a few smaller Basilicas along the way with gorgeous artwork and architecture. 

For dinner, we headed to one of the most famous restaurants in Rome, Osteria da Fortunata! We had an incredible dinner for a very reasonable price. The food was delicious, and our favorite part was watching the cooks make the pasta FRESH right in front of us. We absolutely loved the food and highly recommend you eat here! After our incredible dinner, we walked about 25 minutes back to our hotel.

Day 15 – Rome

We woke up excited for the day! We had the Castel Sant’Angelo and a Pasta Making activity booked! We highly recommend heading to the Castel Sant’Angelo EARLY and booking tickets on Get Your Guide beforehand. A skip-the-line pass does wonders! Believe it or not, this castle was one of our favorite activities in Rome! All rooms have plaques with stories about the room, making a guide unnecessary. They had a small museum with artifacts as well. All of the rooms were walkable, and all had outstanding architecture! Upon reaching the top rooms, we realized this was the home of many popes but originally commissioned by the Roman Emperor Hadrian! The deep-rooted history of the castle was beautiful. There is a rooftop balcony/deck with incredible views of Rome and an Archangel Michael statue. After the rooftop patio, you can go down a staircase to the castle walls, with beautiful views, artwork, and a café with food and coffee! There are some tables at the café with the BEST view of the Vatican! We loved Castel Sant’Angelo.

View from the top of the Castel Sant’Angelo

After exploring Castel Sant’Angelo, we walked around Rome for a bit! We went to the Flaminio Obelisk in Piazza del Popolo, walked around Villa Borghese, and headed to the Spanish Steps! 

After walking on the Spanish Steps, we got the BEST gelato at Icecream Shop La Strega Nocciola! After our delicious gelato, we took a small shopping trip to Zara! It is a fun 4-story shop with lots of adorable clothes. We then walked around a bit more and saw the Trevi Fountain! Be warned that the Spanish Steps and the Trevi Fountain are PACKED if you do not go early in the mornings.

We enjoyed a few drinks at Pub Cuccagna before our cooking class. Our cooking class was located at ‘Gusto! We booked our tickets through Get Your Guide. Tickets can only be booked ahead of time and will sell out. We had a full cooking class of about 20 people! The hosts spoke English fluently, so we had no issues during class! We made ravioli, fettuccini, and tiramisu and had so much fun! Afterward, they sent us the recipes so we would have them for future usage. 

We had so much fun in the cooking class! After they cooked the food that we made, we ate it on the back patio. The restaurant gave us free limoncello shots! The limoncello inspired a group of about 10 of us to go around and bar hop at the Trastevere district. We went to a few bars and ended up at an Americanized one called BumBum Bar Brasileiro. The drinks at the bar were awesome! The bartenders even let people go behind the bar and pour drinks. I was chosen and given a bottle. I got to give our friends pulls from it before they took it back! We had so much fun and stayed out late, making amazing memories and great friends! We ate Pizza Trilussa at 12 am and then took a Uber back to our hotel. We had such a fun night!

Our cooking class group at the bar

Day 16 – Rome

We woke up, checked out of our hotel, and got breakfast at Bar I Tigli. We switched hotels halfway through our time in Rome to the East side of Rome, closer to other attractions such as the Colosseum. We went by train to the Golden Tulip Rome Piram, where we stayed for the rest of our trip. We could have walked but decided the train would be quicker since we had tickets for the Colosseum at 3 pm. We enjoyed our stay! The free breakfast was great, and the hotel staff was very nice.

Golden Tulip Rome Piram

After checking in and settling in at our hotel, we ate lunch at Le 2 Colonne. The food was very good, and it is right next to the Basilica Papale di Santa Maria Maggiore, which is a cool sight! After eating, we walked to the Colosseum. Again, we used Get Your Guide to get a skip-the-line ticket. We were very happy that we did since the line was super long! This ticket also included entrance into Palatino (the Roman Forum.)

The Colosseum was INCREDIBLE! We wish we had a guide to hear the stories and deeper history behind everything. There are plaques and artifacts all over depicting very helpful stories. If you are interested, additional tickets take you down to the floor of the Colosseum, where you can see where animals were kept, gladiators prepared to fight, and people and animals were raised onto the floor! We loved the Colosseum!

Colosseum

Palatino was next. We had so much fun exploring all of the sights inside! The Roman Forum, Palatine Hill, Septimius Severus Arch, Basilica of Maxentius, and everything else inside were incredible! There was a lot to see, and it was gorgeous.

Palatine Hill

We decided it was time for dinner. Trapizzino|Trastevere came highly recommended to us! After dinner, we enjoyed our hotel’s rooftop bar. The drinks were tasty, and the views were great!

Rooftop bar at Golden Tulip Rome Piram

Day 17 – Rome

Our last day in Italy… We were so sad to leave. We started the day super early, visiting the Spanish Steps and the Trevi Fountain when almost no one was there. We ate breakfast at our hotel, which was delicious. After, at 10 am, we scheduled a tour with Get Your Guide to visit the aqueducts under the Trevi fountain! It was a very cool experience. There was so much we had not yet seen, and we only had a day left! 

We walked all around Rome on the last day visiting all of the sites we wanted to see for a second time or those we had not yet seen. We had lunch at Vinando A Tor Margana, and the food was very good! After, we went to explore the Altar of the Fatherland! It is an incredible building with lots of history. The tickets to the rooftop view are fairly cheap. With that ticket, you can also access the museum!

We spent a bit of time at the Altar of the Fatherland and, afterward, walked behind the building on the right side up some stairs (to Campidoglio) and found an incredible (FREE) viewpoint of the Roman Forum.

Viewpoint of the Roman Forum (41°53’33.0″N 12°29’00.4″E!)

We then decided to head back to our hotel and enjoy the rooftop bar one last time. We watched a beautiful sunset with yummy drinks in hand and went for dinner. Our final dinner in Italy was at Alessio! It was a delicious restaurant with incredible service. We were so happy to end our trip on an amazing note!

Day 18 – Headed Home

Waking up early, we checked out of our hotel in Rome. We were so sad to leave Italy. Luckily the train station was only a 5-minute walk, and the train to the airport was direct. We were lucky to have an upgraded seat, so the train ride was very comfortable. The airport is very easy to navigate! We were on our way home in no time, and in no time at all, we missed Italy so much.

Our Favorite Moments

Cinque Terre

If there were one place we would return to in Italy, from the towns and cities we visited, it would be Cinque Terre. Cinque Terre was our favorite location in Italy. When there, we felt so relaxed and peaceful. The food in Cinque Terre was so good, and the scenery was even better! All the locals were incredibly nice and helpful. We loved our Air BnB hosts, our hotels, and their staff. There is something about Cinque Terre that does not make you want to leave. When you arrive, the ocean breeze washes over you, and you fall in love. The color of the homes on the hillside, the look and feel of the water and sand, the beautiful hillsides, and the gorgeous shops! We fell in love with Cinque Terre.

The FOOD

The food in Italy was absolutely incredible! Our favorite city for the best food was Florence. Every single meal that we had in Florence was beyond incredible. All the food in Italy is incredible and fresh, freshly made, freshly harvested, and tastes incredible. When eating the food, you do not feel the same fullness as you do in America… you can eat again shortly after, and even though the portions are well-sized, normally, finishing plates is easy! Once we returned to America, our stomachs were messed up since we went from fresh food to processed foods. It took us two weeks to adjust back to American foods. We miss the food in Italy!

The HISTORY

We are huge history geeks… When visiting Italy, history is constantly present—every brick in the road, every archway, every building in every town. Everything in every city has some pull towards history, some ancient story that must be told… Being surrounded by ancient times is wonderful! Our favorite city for history was Rome. We loved all of the historical sites to visit. While the Pompeii Archeological site is not in Rome, that was also unbelievable. The history we saw, stories we heard, and sites we visited were unbelievable.

We are so excited to hear about your experience in Italy! What did you find that works best? What was your favorite memory? What would you recommend that we did not? Contact us on Instagram! @Guidedbyadventures

WELCOME ADVENTURERS!

We are Sierra & Hayden. We love to travel, adventure, exploration, and make new memories. If we aren’t traveling, we are either working, hanging out with friends, spending quality time together, watching our favorite shows and movies, hanging with our dog Luna, or gaming. We started dating on July 4th, 2019, and have been happily making memories ever since! We are very excited to share our stories with you!

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